3/4 inch thick pine board about 2.5 inches wide and about 8 inches long.
(Prototype shown is 5" long; 8" is better.)
1/4 inch thick tiny boards to act as stops for telescope base
1/4" - 20 hex bolt 1 inch long
3/4" flat washer
1/4" - 20 T-nut 5/8" (or 1/2") inch long
Elmers wood glue
Saw to cut the wood. Drill Press or drill, 3/4" or 7/8" Forsner bit to drill depression for hex bolt, 5/16" drill bit
Next, using the regular drill bit, finish drilling the holes for the hex bolt and the T-nut in the center of the depressions.
8' Long (better) prototype on Telescope
Cut a pine board about 2.5 inches wide and 8 inches long. In the center of the top and bottom of the board, draw a line down a line lengthwise.
Top of STTM (attaches to base of Galileoscope)
Begin on the top of the board. Measure 3 inches from the front end. Drill the large hole for the T-nut using the Forsner bit, centered three inches from the front end, at a depth that just allows the T-nut to reach opposite side. Push the T-nut in place from the top down.
Bottom of STTM (attaches to tripod)
Bottom: Flip the board over to the bottom, along the center line, 4 1/4 inches from the front end, drill a large depression 1/4 inch deep with Forsner bit.
Finally, glue a little piece of wood about 1/4 inch thick at the point where the Galileoscope base touches the STTM. (Attach the mount to the Galileoscope. Put glue on the little board. Slide the little board in place until it makes contact with the base. You can also put a tiny piece of wood on the side. Holds these pieces down (with clamps or books) until the glue dries. (See Top of STTM picture.)
Tool helpful while using: either a wrench or socket wrench to tighten the hex bolt.
STTM mounted to Telescope and to Tripod
Enjoy using your Galileoscope on a more sturdy mounting!
More Notes and Update on Plan.
I have modified the overall plans a bit which should simplifly construction.
(1) On the hole for the bolt that goes into the scope, no change-- you just need to make sure the countersunk hole is deep enough to allow the head of the bolt to be below the surface, and large enough to allow the bolt to be tighten.
(2) I changed the position of the T-nut. Instead of countersinking the round end into the board, I first drilled the clearance hole for the shaft. Then from the side of the board with the countersunk hole (#1 above) I inserted the T-nut into the clearance hole and used the bolt with a washer under it's head to draw the T-nut into the board. To help the nut stay put, I pulled the nut a little way into the board, and the applied "thick" supeglue to the board under the nut and finished drawing the nut into the board.(Making sure not to get any glue on the threads)
(3) To mount the small strips to keep the scope from twisting, I first wrapped the square base of the scope with masking tape and using the 1/4-20 bolt, attached the scope to the base. I then applied "thick" superglue to fix the small strips to the board. No need to use clamps. The tape should keep the glue from sticking the scope to the board. Once the glue sets, remove the scope and take the tape off of the scope.
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